Australian Dress Register

Historic and Social.

The social aspect of significance for this suit is twofold. Firstly, it was manufactured by Rundles, an iconic Newcastle business, now in its 180th year of operation. Furthermore, the suit was purchased to be worn to Eisteddfods, which were surely a highlight of a town or city's social calendar, especially during the dark years of the Great Depression. Due to very high levels of Welsh mining migration to Newcastle and the Hunter during the 19th and early 20th century, Eisteddfods were even more significant cultural events than in most communities. An Eisteddfod is a Welsh festival of literature, music and performance. Newcastle Eisteddfod retained a Welsh speaking competition well into the 20th century.

The fact that this suit is provenanced to a particular individual, is intact and in good condition, and even dated makes if of historical significance as a Depression-era item of menswear made and worn in Newcastle. It would be nice to uncover more about Lawrence Watkins, and maybe even source some photographs and paper based material from the Eisteddfods in which he competed.

Note: As a garment on its own, however, the three piece suit is still of great historical significance. The 1931 date of the garment importantly places the suit squarely within a context when the depths of the Depression were being keenly felt in Australia. Yet the garment was produced by a growing tailoring business, Rundles, and was purchased expressly for an individual to wear when participating in pleasurable eisteddfods. These two facts highlight that though many Australians suffered economic hardship during the Depression, some inhabitants in Australian cities like Newcastle remained relatively unscathed by surrounding events. Garments like this three piece suit are reminders, therefore, that although often far-reaching and devastating, the Depression was an uneven event. It affected different people and different groups in vastly different ways.

Even at the height of the Depression in 1931, some individuals like Lawrence Watkins continued to purchase three piece suits in large metropolitan areas like Newcastle. It was this sustained patronage that enabled some fortunate businesses, like Rundle Tailoring, to expand and grow despite the trying times.

Lawrence Watkin's three piece suit reminds us that not all businesses suffered irreversible losses during the Depression in Australia.

Anna Lebovic, 2012.

Author: Michelle A. Maddison, 1 February 2012.

Black three part men's suit comprising suit coat (jacket) waistcoat (vest) and trousers worn by Lawrence Watkins.

Jacket -

Single breast jacket with interior breast pockets, single breast pocket at upper left and two exterior pockets each side of jacket. Single black button at lower front (around midriff) which has woven black cover, a spare button is attached on the inside of jacket. Cuffs each have two smaller versions of this button. The fabric of the collar and lapels are two different finishes, and the collar is embellished with a narrow black braid which extends the entire length. Sleeve interiors are lined with a lightweight pin striped fabric (cotton?)

Waistcoat -

Simple black waistcoat with four small covered buttons (matching cuff buttons). Low cut neckline to match suit. Lapel is edged with narrow black braid. Slanted pocket either side. Waistcoat fit can be altered with adjustable belt at back.

Trousers -

Small fit, high waisted trousers. Button fly, with 6 plastic (Bakelite) buttons. Six matching Bakelite buttons marked 'Rundle / Newcastle' around waistband. Trouser fit can be altered with fitted belt and buckle at back of pants. Narrow black braid runs vertically down the entire outer leg. Pocket at rear right, small coin pocket upper right waistband. Hidden pockets either side. Trouser bottoms aren't straight (curved slightly) and the inside front of each trouser hem has a small length of leather sewn in place.